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Portret: Andrej Grmovšek

Andrej je s plezanjem pričel leta 1989/1990. Sprva se je posvečal predvsem športnemu plezanju, obiskal je tudi nekaj tekmovanj, kasneje pa se je začel vse več ukvarjati z alpinizmom, predvsem prostim plezanjem dolgih smeri v velikih stenah. Obiskal je veliko zanimivih, nepoznanih in neraziskanih plezalnih področij po svetu.

Andrejeva strast in ljubezen je še vedno težavno prosto plezanje na zgornji meji, v odmaknjenih in nepoznanih plezalnih področjih. Vzponi, ki jih je opravil v zadnjih desetih letih, predstavljajo najtežje slovenske skalne vzpone v velikih stenah. V letu 2005, 2008 in 2010 je bil izbran za najuspešnejšega slovenskega alpinista. Že vrsto let dosega razred vrhunskega športnika mednarodnega razreda po kriterijih Olimpijskega komiteja Slovenije.

Andrej je leta 2002 diplomiral na Univerzi v Ljubljani, smer geografija. Od leta 2004 je zaposlen na Zavodu RS za varstvo narave, OE Maribor. Leta 2002 se je poročil s svojo najljubšo soplezalko in življenjsko partnerico Tanjo.




SOME SIGNIFICANT ROUTES AND CLIMBING EXPEDITIONS



Year 2010 - climbing expedition to "Canada - Cirque of the Unclimbables"

five long routes climbed free in Cirque of the Unclimbables, Logan Mountains, Canada
- Power of Silence, Middle Huey Spire, Cirque, Canada, 5.12c (IX-) ((5.13a)), 400m; free, leading all the route; in rain
- Riders on the Storm, East Huey Spire, Cirque, Canada, 5.12d (IX), 400m, free, on sight; leading all the route
- SE Face, Lotus Flower Tower, Cirque, Canada, 5.11-, 750m , on sight
- Club International, Bustle Tower, Cirque, Canada, 5.11b, 600 m, on sight
- The White Tower, Terrace Tower, Cirque, Canada, 5.11, 250 m, on sight
- many boulders and sport routes climbed in BC Fairy Meadows (Pinguin, Serenity Crack,…)
- Unforgiven, Mt, Yamnuska, Canadian Rockies, Canada, 5.11c, 280 m, on sight

- Via Cattedrale, Marmolada, Italy, X-, 650 m, free ascent
- Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande, Dolomites, Italy, IX, 200m, 1st free ascent
- La Mamma, Marmolada, Italy, VIII, 500 m, free ascent
- Brid klina, Anića kuk, Paklenica, Croatia, 7c, 350 m, on sight
- Obraz, Planja, Julian Alps, Slovenia, VIII, 500 m, on sight
 
- Direktna, Štajerska Rinka, KS Alps, Slovenia, M6+, AI 5+, 400 m, winter free ascent
- Ledenka, Štajerska Rinka, KS Alps, Slovenia, M8 AI6, 550 m; first ascent in winter, free ascent

- nominated and selected for best Slovene alpine climber



Year 2009 - climbing expedition to "Marocco - Taghia" and "Garhwall India - Shark's Fin"

unsucessful attemp on Meru Shark's Fin, Garhwal India (with Silvo Karo and Marko Lukić)

nine long routes and one first ascent  climbed in Taghia, Marocco
- Kozmična streha, Tagojimt N'Tsouiant, Taghia, Marocco, VIII+/IX-, 750 m, first ascent, on sight, free ascent done just with traditional gear
- L'ax du mal, Tadrarate, Taghia, Marocco, 7c, 500 m, free ascent
- Les Riviere porpre, Taoujdad, Marocco, 7b+, 545 m, free ascent
- Baraka, Ojdad, Taghia, Marocco, 7b, 680 m, on sight

- Donnafugata, Torre Trieste, Italy, 8a, 750 m, free ascent in one day
- Les Intouchables, Trident du Tacul, France, 7c+, 250 m, on sight
- Scalet-Biasin, Saas Maor, Italy, IX-, 600 m, on sight
- Življenje, Anića kuk,  Croatia, VIII, 250 m, trad; on sight

- No Siesta, Grandes Jorasses, France, VI+, M8, AI 5, 1100 m, possible 2nd free ascent
- Illuminati, Val Lungo, Italia, M11, WI6+, 160m, free ascent

- Dryland, Innsbruck, Seitenwind M9 on sight

- nominated for best Slovene alpine climber 

Year 2008 – climbing expedition »GREENLAND - Tasermiut Fjord«

six routes climbed in Tasermiut Fjord, Greenland; three new routes and three more routes climbed free on sight
- War and Poetry, Ulamertorsuaq, Greenland, VI, 5.12c (IX-), 1000m; free, on sight, in one push, leading all the route
- British Route, Nalumasortoq, Greenland, VI, 5.12+ (IX), 700m, free, on sight; leading all the route in 10 hours!
- Mosqito Attack, Pyramid of Ulamertorsuaq (Little Uli), Greenland, VII, 320m , on sight
- Grmolandija, Pingasuat sud (Pyiramiden), Greenland, VII+, 280m; new route
- Nalunaq, Tinninertuup III, Greenland, VII/VII+, 900m; new route
- Leteči Viking, Tinninertuup II, Greenland, VIII, 850m; new route

- Paolo VI, Tofana di Rozes, Italy, VIII+/IX-, 500 m, free ascent
- Ivano Dibona, Cima Scotoni, Italy, VIII+, 600m, free ascent
- Vol de Nuit, Mt. Blanc du Tacul, France, M8-, 450m

- nominated and selected for best Slovene alpine climber


Year 2007 – climbing expedition »INDIA«

four new routes climbed in Himalayan Range, Miyar Valley, India; two of them on two virgin peaks

- Tempi Moderni, Marmolada, Dolomites, Italy, 7+/8, 830m
- Spider, Anića kuk, Croatia, 8a, 350m, free ascent
- Gabbarou-Silvy, Aig. Sans Nom, France, VI, M8, AI 6 (8), 1000 m, possible 2nd free ascent
- Mali koritniški medved, Loška stena, Slovenia, V, M6+, AI6, 800m
- Scotch on the rocks, Mt. Blanc du Tacul, France, M7, 450m, on sight

- Dryland, Innsbruck, Game Over M13-, Tension M12+; Kandersteg, Ueschinen; Matador M11, Tool time M10+

-   nominated for best Slovene alpine climber <!--[endif]-->


Year 2006 – climbing expedition »PAKISTAN – Trango Towers« and climbing trip to “USA – Colorado” in winter

- Eternal flame, Trango (Nameless) Tower (6251m), Karakoram, Pakistan, 7b A2, M5, 1000m, 1st one day ascent (20h)
- Three hundred eggs, Uli Biaho Spire (5600m), Karakorum, Pakistan, 6b+, 600m, new route, 1st ascent of the mountain, free ascent, on sight
- Piranski zaliv, BC slabs, Karakorum, Pakistan, 7a obl., 650m, new route, free ascent, on sight

- Cupido, Anića kuk, Croatia, 8a, 350m, free ascent
- Metropolis + Čopov steber, Triglav, Julian Alps, Slovenia, VIII+, 1000m, free ascent, on sight
- Po-economi Bonatti, Grand Capucin, Central Alps, France, 7b, 450m, free ascent
- L’ echo de alpages, Grand Capucin, Central Alps, France, 7a+, 450m, free ascent
- Spigolo Scoitto, West Cima, Dolomites, Italy, 7a+, 450m, free ascent – on sight

- Vail, Colorado, USA, Reptile M10;  Vallle di Landro, Dolomites, Italy, La Via e Bella M11

<!--[if !supportLists]-->-   nominated for best Slovene alpine climber<!--[endif]-->


Year 2005 – climbing expedition »ARGENTINA - Patagonia«             

- Slovenian start for Cerro Torre, Cerro Torre, Patagonia, Argentina, 6c+ A1+, 65°, 1700m, new variation, free till Compressor route
- Italian route, Aig. Poincenot, Patagonia, Argentina, 6c A3, 1300m, 2nd ascent, 1st integral ascent to the top
- Claro de Luna, Aig. Saint Exupery, Patagonia, Argentina, 6c, 750m, free ascent – on sight

- Camilloto Pellesier / M. Minuzzo, Cima Grande, Tre Cime, Dolomites, Italy, 8b (8a+), 550m, free ascent, everything on lead
- Alan Fjor+Mjesečina+Zlatne godine, Anića kuk, Paklenica, 7c and 7b Ao, 3×350m; three hard routes in a day; climbing marathon
- Ptičja pesem, Križevnik, KS Alps, Slovenia, IX, 200m, 2nd ascent, free ascent – on sight
- Rondo Venziano, Torre Trieste, Dolomites, Italy, IX-, 450m, free ascent

- nominated and selected for best Slovene alpine climber

- Big Wall Speed Climbing Paklenica 2005; 1st place in male category (international event)


Year 2004 – climbing trip “ENGLAND - Wales”

- French route / Couzy route, West Cima, Tre Cime, Dolomites, Italy, 8b(8a+), 550m, free ascent, everything on lead
- Smer norckov, Site, Julian Alps, Slovenia, 8a, 350m, free ascent, everything on lead
- Aig. du Fou, Central Alps, France: Les ailes du desir 7c, 300m and American route 7c, 300m, both free ascent – on sight, in one day
- Scotonata galactica, Cima Scotoni, Dolomites, Italy, 7b+, 450m, free ascent – on sight
- Wales, Stoneage, England many routes till E5

- nominated for best Slovene alpine climber
- Big Wall Speed Climbing Paklenica 2004; 1st place in male category (international event)


Year 2003 – climbing expedition » CHINA - Sichuan«             

- Don't fly away, Tan Shan (4952m), Sichuan, China, VIII/VIII+ obl., 540m, new route, 1st  ascent on the virgin peak, free ascent
- Dalai Lama, Putala Shan (5428m), Sichuan, China, VIII-, 1300m, new route, 1st ascent on the virgin peak, free ascent – on sight

- Divine Providence, Grand Piller d' Angle –Mont Blanc, France, 7c, 900m + 600m, 2nd free ascent - on sight
- Akut,  West Cima, Dolomites, Italy, 8a (7c+), 550m, 1st free ascent, in one day
- Das Phantom der Zinne, Cima Grande, Dolomites, Italy, 7c+, 550m, 1st free ascent, in one day
- Specchio di Sarah, Marmolada, Dolomites, Italy, 7c, 500m, free ascent – flesh

- nominated for best Slovene alpine climber
- Big Wall Speed Climbing Paklenica 2003; 2nd place in male category (international event)


Year 2002 – climbing expedition »USA & MEXICO - El Gigante« and climbing trip to “CUBA” and “SARDEGNA”

- La Conjura de los Necios, El Gigante, Candamena Canyon, Mexico, 7c+, 1000m, 2nd ascent, free ascent - on sight
- Moonlight buttres, Zion, USA, 5.12a A0, 300m

- Fish, Marmolada, Dolomites, Italy, 7b+, 1200m, free ascent in one day
- Gelbe Mauer, Cima Piccola, Dolomites, Italy, 7b, 300m, free ascent - on sight
- Veccia Aldo Nobile, Cima Piccolisima, Dolomites, Italy, 7c+, 200m, free ascent - flesh
- American Direct, Petit Dru, France, 6c, 1300m, free ascent – on sight in one day

-   nominated for best Slovene male alpine climber
got married to Tanja Rojs (now Grmovšek)
 


Year 2001 – climbing expedition »PERU – La Esfinge«

- Meche taq inti, La Esfinge (5325m), Cordilera Blanca, Peru, 7b, 800m, new route, 1st ascent, free ascent
- Cruz del sur, La Esfinge (5325m), Cordilera Blanca, Peru, 7c+ (7b), 800m, free ascent, 2nd ascent
- Route '85, La Esfinge (5325m), Cordilera Blanca, Peru, 7a, 800m, free ascent - on sight
- Bela grapa, Planjava, KS Alps, Slovenia, snow and ice 80°/60°, 1000m, winter ascent


Year 2000 – climbing trip »NORWAY«

- Hoka hey, Kjerag, Norway, 8-/8, 800m, free ascent - on sight    
- Shangri la, Hornaksla, Romsdal, Norway, 8-, 320m, free ascent – on sight
- Korstoget-Reisen, Presten, Lofoten Islands, Norway, 8-, 480m, free ascent - on sight
- Sydpilaren, Mongejura, Romsdal, Norway, 7, 1150m, free ascent - on sight


Year 1999 – climbing expedition »USA & MEXICO«

- Salathe Free-Rider, El Capitan, Yosemite, USA, 5.11d Ao, 1100m,  95% of the route free
- El Sendero Luminoso, El Toro, El Potrero Chico, Mexico, 5.12d, 550m, free ascent - on sight
- Time for Livin, Outrige wall, El Potrero Chico, Mexico, 5.13a, 150m, free ascent

- Zvezdica zaspanka, Golarjeva peč, KS Alps, Slovenia, IX -, 220m, new route, free ascent
- Alan fjord, Anića kuk, Croatia, 7b+, 300m, free ascent - on sight
- Buba mara, Anića kuk, Croatia, 7c/c+, 350m, free ascent
- Swiss diretissima, West Cima, Dolomites, Italy, 7b, 450m, free ascent - on sight

sport climbing: 8b+ RP, 7c+ OS


Year 1998 – climbing expedition »MADAGASCAR«

- Gondwanaland, Tsaranoro, Madagascar, 7b+, 800m, free ascent
- Salama vazaha, Donde, Madagascar, 7b+, 450m, new route, free ascent, 1st ascent of the wall
- Out of Africa, Andingitra, Madagascar, 7a, 650m, free ascent - on sight

- Tintenstrich, Rotewand, Austria, IX, 300m, 1st free ascent, in winter
- Obraz sfinge, Triglav, Julian Alps, Slovenia, IX/IX+, 200m, 2nd free ascent
- Das ist nicht kar tako, Šite, Julian Alps, Slovenia, IX -, 450m, free ascent
- Rumeni strah, Anića kuk, Croatia, IX-, 300m, free ascent
- Črna burja, Osp, Slovenia, 7c, 150m, free ascent – on sight

sport climbing: 8b RP, 7c OS


Year 1997 – climbing expedition »USA«

- Rostrum, Yosemite, USA, 5.11c, 300m, free ascent - on sight
- Regular route, Half Dome, Yosemite, USA, 5.11 A2, 650m
- Monkey fingers, Zion, USA, 5.12, 300m, free ascent - on sight

- Welcome, Anića kuk, Croatia, 7b+, 350 m, free ascent
- Superdiretisima, Cima Grande, Dolomites, Italy, VIII+ Ao, 550m, french free two times for 1m


Year 1995
- Bergantova, Triglav, Julian Alps, Slovenia, VIII+/IX-, 400m, free ascent
- Hasse-Brandler, Cima Grande, Dolomites, Italy, VIII+, 550m, free ascent - on sight
- Goba, Osp, Slovenia, IX, 150m, free ascent - on sight; remarkable ascent that is still very rare
- Amonit, Kogel, KS Alps, Slovenia, VIII 250m, free ascent - on sight; my first hard route in the mountains

sport climbing: 8a+ RP, 7b+ OS

My planed expedition to Greenland was canceled due to fall and pretty bad leg injury.


Year 1994

sport climbing: 8a RP
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Year 1993 - climbing expedition »USA«

- The Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite, USA, 5.10 C2, 1100m
- Astroman, Washington Column, Yosemite, USA, 5.11c, 400m, free ascent

sport climbing: 7b/c RP, 7a+ OS


Year 1992 – climbing trip to »Czechoslovakia«

sport climbing: 7b RP, 7a OS

 


just GrmO

2011-02-09
Triglav, impressive winter ascent

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out hard winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
2010-09-20
How was it in Canada? WILD!

On the expedition to the Cirque of the Unclimbables Tanja and Andrej were fascinated by the sheer wilderness of Canadian North. They went trough real wilderness adventure with lot of good climbing, to much bush hiking and not enough scenic paddling!
2010-07-20
Via Sandro Pertini and Via Cattedrale

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovšek finsihed short visit to the Dolomites with the first free ascent of Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande (7c, 250m) and free ascent of the magnificent Via Cattedrale (8a+ or 8a, 650m, 850m long), Marmolada.
2010-01-26
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps

This winter brings almost unreal conditions to most of the Slovenian alpine walls and an increasing number of Slovenian alpinists found real climbing treasures in the hills!
2009-10-01
Are we afraid of sharks?

Famous and still unclimbed Meru Sharks Fin had turned away jet another climbing team. Beginners lessons for “old experts?” Silvo, Marko and Andrej.
2009-06-18
When everything goes well!

Andrej fight to the end ... and at the end did a one-day free ascent of route Donnafugata, 8a, 750m, Torre Trieste.
2009-05-29
Perfect Morocco

The expedition to Morocco was really great. We were enraptured with its diversity and hospitability of the local people. And especially with unbelievably amounts of reddish walls, one of the best limestone climbing cliffs we know!
2009-03-31
NO winter SIESTA

Amazing busy winter season for Andrej and Marko with some really good and well done routes around Alps like Illuminati and No Siesta! Great climbers on great routes and they don't have any siesta!

2008-09-07
Climbing in South Greenland

Really great climbing expedition, on which we found excelent rock, great weather, many long routes, good friends, beautiful nature and perfect timing.

2008-02-08
Free Mix Lines above Chamonix

Good winter season above Chamonix during which Andrej and Marko were looking for good and chalenging mix routes.


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Oblikovanje in izvedba: Branko Ivanek, 2005  © [grmoclimb.net] Tanja & Andrej Grmovšek, 2005 - 2014