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Free Mix Lines above Chamonix

Good winter season above Chamonix during which Andrej and Marko were looking for good and chalenging mix routes.

At the end of January 2008 Andrej Grmovsek and Marko Lukic free climbed onsight the Dru North Couloir Direct (VI 6+ M8, 700m), a line that goes between the Grand Dru and the Petit Dru that Grmovsek described as "one of the ultimate hard mixed climbs above Chamonix." The first third of the climb consisted of 60-80 degree slopes and some delicate climbing on slabs with only a few centimeters of ice and some difficult dry sections. Jakofcic said that in good winters there is an easy gully leading up, and last year many teams climbed the classic Dru Couloir, and they didn't notice any difficulties in this lower part. The second part was a steep and sometimes overhanging dry mixed corner that Grmovsek said is the "heart of the direct line and offers five pitches of perfect climbing at quite a high grade." This section of the climb had some short aid climbing, and Grmovsek said there was probably less ice than in previous deacades. The last third of the climb is in the 60-80 degree ice couloir between the Grand and Petit Drus. Grmovsek and Lukic completed the route in thirteen hours and then rappelled. Grmovsek said it was by far the best mixed climb he had done.

On the last week of December 2007 Tanja and Andrej Grmovsek climbed Scotch on the Rocks (IV M7, 450m) on the east face of Mt. Blanc du Tacul, then M6 Solar (M5+, 200m) and also rarely climbed route on Petite Verte, Imasscre (V+, 450 m) on which Tina Di Batista joined them. The routes were almost totally dry at that time.

On picture Marko Lukic leading the overhanging ice exit on the Dru North Couloir Direct.


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Triglav, impressive winter ascent

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out hard winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
How was it in Canada? WILD!

On the expedition to the Cirque of the Unclimbables Tanja and Andrej were fascinated by the sheer wilderness of Canadian North. They went trough real wilderness adventure with lot of good climbing, to much bush hiking and not enough scenic paddling!
Via Sandro Pertini and Via Cattedrale

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovšek finsihed short visit to the Dolomites with the first free ascent of Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande (7c, 250m) and free ascent of the magnificent Via Cattedrale (8a+ or 8a, 650m, 850m long), Marmolada.
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps

This winter brings almost unreal conditions to most of the Slovenian alpine walls and an increasing number of Slovenian alpinists found real climbing treasures in the hills!
Are we afraid of sharks?

Famous and still unclimbed Meru Sharks Fin had turned away jet another climbing team. Beginners lessons for “old experts?” Silvo, Marko and Andrej.
When everything goes well!

Andrej fight to the end ... and at the end did a one-day free ascent of route Donnafugata, 8a, 750m, Torre Trieste.
Perfect Morocco

The expedition to Morocco was really great. We were enraptured with its diversity and hospitability of the local people. And especially with unbelievably amounts of reddish walls, one of the best limestone climbing cliffs we know!
NO winter SIESTA

Amazing busy winter season for Andrej and Marko with some really good and well done routes around Alps like Illuminati and No Siesta! Great climbers on great routes and they don't have any siesta!

Climbing in South Greenland

Really great climbing expedition, on which we found excelent rock, great weather, many long routes, good friends, beautiful nature and perfect timing.

Free Mix Lines above Chamonix

Good winter season above Chamonix during which Andrej and Marko were looking for good and chalenging mix routes.

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Oblikovanje in izvedba: Branko Ivanek, 2005  © [] Tanja & Andrej Grmovšek, 2005 - 2024