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Never give up! Projekt Tofana completed!

Nova smer v Tofani, ki sva jo z Markom Lukićem preplezala v 4 plezalnih dneh, oziroma dveh vikendih v juliju je končno dobila še piko na i, prosto ponovitev.

Potovanje v Dolomite smo nato podaljšali še do montblanškega granita in uživali v počeh Grand Capucina in satelitov ter se malce aklimatizirali za indijske šesttisočake!
 

Zaradi Markovih zdravstvenih težav se mi je pri prostem vzponu na dan vnebovzetja pridružil nadebudni in zagnani Luka Krajnc. Plezanje je potekalo dokaj gladko, teževnost je bila na srečo nekoliko nižja kot sem pričakoval (se bal), kljub temu pa nama je konstantno in resno plezanje v ne vedno najboljši skali vzelo cel dan. Pri plezanju naju je spremljala tudi Tanja, ki je uspela veliko ovekovečiti na filmski trak - upam, da bo iz materiala nastal še kak dober film. Tako sem pred odpravo v Indijo uspel zaključit letošnji »dolomitski projekt«.

Po premiku v Courmayeur smo ulovili kratko obdobje relativno lepega vremena in preplezali dve lepi smeri Cache - cache (6c, 250m) v P. Adolphe Ray in Directe des capucines, (6c, 400m) v Grand Capucinu. Tretji dan pa so nas snežne plohe "nagnale" domov. 

Čeprav sva z Markom preplezala že mnoge zelo zahtevne dolomitske smeri, pa bi med njimi težko našel primerjavo najini prvenstveni. Po fizični težavnosti plezanja nova smer zagotovo ne sega med "naj". Morda je zaradi resnosti in potrebe po dodatnem premičnem varovanju najsorodnješa zahtevnim smerem v Marmoladi (Specchio di Sarah, Riba). Vendar  pa kvaliteta in zanesljivost skale v Tofaninih previsih niti približno ne dosega prvorazrednega apnenca Marmolade.

Več o novi smeri je v rubriki smeri: http://grmoclimb.net/?str=502&aid=22

 
 


just GrmO

2011-02-09
Triglav, impressive winter ascent

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out hard winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
2010-09-20
How was it in Canada? WILD!

On the expedition to the Cirque of the Unclimbables Tanja and Andrej were fascinated by the sheer wilderness of Canadian North. They went trough real wilderness adventure with lot of good climbing, to much bush hiking and not enough scenic paddling!
2010-07-20
Via Sandro Pertini and Via Cattedrale

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovšek finsihed short visit to the Dolomites with the first free ascent of Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande (7c, 250m) and free ascent of the magnificent Via Cattedrale (8a+ or 8a, 650m, 850m long), Marmolada.
2010-01-26
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps

This winter brings almost unreal conditions to most of the Slovenian alpine walls and an increasing number of Slovenian alpinists found real climbing treasures in the hills!
2009-10-01
Are we afraid of sharks?

Famous and still unclimbed Meru Sharks Fin had turned away jet another climbing team. Beginners lessons for “old experts?” Silvo, Marko and Andrej.
2009-06-18
When everything goes well!

Andrej fight to the end ... and at the end did a one-day free ascent of route Donnafugata, 8a, 750m, Torre Trieste.
2009-05-29
Perfect Morocco

The expedition to Morocco was really great. We were enraptured with its diversity and hospitability of the local people. And especially with unbelievably amounts of reddish walls, one of the best limestone climbing cliffs we know!
2009-03-31
NO winter SIESTA

Amazing busy winter season for Andrej and Marko with some really good and well done routes around Alps like Illuminati and No Siesta! Great climbers on great routes and they don't have any siesta!

2008-09-07
Climbing in South Greenland

Really great climbing expedition, on which we found excelent rock, great weather, many long routes, good friends, beautiful nature and perfect timing.

2008-02-08
Free Mix Lines above Chamonix

Good winter season above Chamonix during which Andrej and Marko were looking for good and chalenging mix routes.


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Oblikovanje in izvedba: Branko Ivanek, 2005  © [grmoclimb.net] Tanja & Andrej Grmovšek, 2005 - 2017