grmoclimb.net Living the Dream.

Zen

 Zadnja odprava

#2 Balkan tour 2014

Več novic iz odprave... 
 
 Zadnje v galeriji

Celotna galerija
Poletna skala

 
 Zadnja smer

Podrobneje
Vražja simfonija, Aniča kuk

 


Novice


Spurs YES... žal

Hladna novica za te vroče dni!

Pravkar sem ugotovila to, kar sem se potihem bala, da se bo zgodilo. Na sestanku UIAA za ledno plezanje, ki je bil v začetku maja so se odločili, da bodo ostroge dovoljene še naprej, torej v tekmovalni sezoni 2007/2008 na tekmah svetovnega pokala v lednem plezanju.
Velika škoda, da so se tako odločili in predvsem zelo čudno, saj se je večina atletov pred tekmovalno sezono 2006/2007 izreklo proti uporabi ostrog.
 

Ostroge se v zadnjih letih pri plezanju drajtul in miks smeri skorajda ne uporabljajo več. Vsi vrhunski plezalci so jih opustili in pričakovati je bilo, da se bo njihova uporaba opustila tudi na tekmah. Večina tekem oz. festivalov je popolnoma opustila uporabo ostrog (tekma na Ouray Ice Festival, tekma  v kanadskem Quebecu, državna drajtul tekma na Slovaškem, da naštejem samo nekatere).

A očitno je bil lobi proizvajalcev premočan, mnenja številnih atletov pa so bila očitno spregledana. Več si lahko preberete v originalnem dokumentu (spodaj), ki sem ga bolj po naključju odkrila na spletnih straneh UIAA http://www.uiaa.ch/?c=120 

Mislim, da smo se vsi letošnji slovenski udeleženci tekmovanj lednega plezanja prav veselili obljubljene odstranitve ostrog v naslednji tekmovalni sezoni. Oba Vukotiča sta bila na vseh tekmah celo korak pred vsemi, saj že v tej sezoni ostrog nista uporabljala. Žal jima je bilo to ob letošnjih postavitvah tekmovalnih smeri bolj v slabost, a smo res upali, da ostrog v naslednji sezoni ne bo več na naših petah. Brez ostrog se da prav tako narediti odličen spektakel, le smeri bi se morale postaviti bolj premišljeno, tako da je to pač slab argument ICICCa.


Spurs admitted to international Ice

climbing Competitions

At it recent meeting on 5th May 2007 in Bern the UIAA Ice Climbing Commission (ICICC) decided to permit the use of spurs at future Ice Climbing competitions.

 

The commission has taken into account that the use of Spurs benefits those who are not so strong by giving them an additional means for resting during the climb.

On the other hand the use of Spurs allows the spectacular demonstration that makes Ice Climbing so unique: the sustainable balance of lightness and strength.

 

The use of Spurs alongside with the use of ergonomic Ice Axes is the ultimate expression of movement and grace of all the capabilities of the athlete as a “Homo Faber” by giving him the right tools for the performance in the Sport. This is what allows this sport to be so different from Rock Climbing.

 

Carlos Texeira

President of the UIAA Ice Climbing commission

21st May 2007



Drugače pa je v naslednji 2007/2008 tekmovalni sezoni  lednega plezanja program sledeč (kar je trenutno znano):

4.-6.1.2008 ledni festival s tekmovanjem KANDERSTEG, Švica (brez uporabe ostrog)

9.-13.1.2008 ledni festival s tekmovanjem OURAY, Colorado, ZDA (brez uporabe ostrog)

21.-23.2.2008 tekma svetovnega pokala v lednem plezanju, težavnost in hitrost SAAS FEE, Švica (z uporabo ostrog)

 
 


just GrmO

2011-02-09
Triglav, impressive winter ascent

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out hard winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
2010-09-20
How was it in Canada? WILD!

On the expedition to the Cirque of the Unclimbables Tanja and Andrej were fascinated by the sheer wilderness of Canadian North. They went trough real wilderness adventure with lot of good climbing, to much bush hiking and not enough scenic paddling!
2010-07-20
Via Sandro Pertini and Via Cattedrale

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovšek finsihed short visit to the Dolomites with the first free ascent of Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande (7c, 250m) and free ascent of the magnificent Via Cattedrale (8a+ or 8a, 650m, 850m long), Marmolada.
2010-01-26
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps

This winter brings almost unreal conditions to most of the Slovenian alpine walls and an increasing number of Slovenian alpinists found real climbing treasures in the hills!
2009-10-01
Are we afraid of sharks?

Famous and still unclimbed Meru Sharks Fin had turned away jet another climbing team. Beginners lessons for “old experts?” Silvo, Marko and Andrej.
2009-06-18
When everything goes well!

Andrej fight to the end ... and at the end did a one-day free ascent of route Donnafugata, 8a, 750m, Torre Trieste.
2009-05-29
Perfect Morocco

The expedition to Morocco was really great. We were enraptured with its diversity and hospitability of the local people. And especially with unbelievably amounts of reddish walls, one of the best limestone climbing cliffs we know!
2009-03-31
NO winter SIESTA

Amazing busy winter season for Andrej and Marko with some really good and well done routes around Alps like Illuminati and No Siesta! Great climbers on great routes and they don't have any siesta!

2008-09-07
Climbing in South Greenland

Really great climbing expedition, on which we found excelent rock, great weather, many long routes, good friends, beautiful nature and perfect timing.

2008-02-08
Free Mix Lines above Chamonix

Good winter season above Chamonix during which Andrej and Marko were looking for good and chalenging mix routes.


Show all news
Oblikovanje in izvedba: Branko Ivanek, 2005  © [grmoclimb.net] Tanja & Andrej Grmovšek, 2005 - 2017