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Game over×2 v Drylandu

Minuli vikend (24.-25.2.) smo se Andrej, Luka in Tanja mudili v avstrijskem hot spotu miksanja in drajtulanja, v Drylandu nad Innsbruckom. Andrej in Luka sta z odličnimi vzponi spet premaknila svojo težavnostno lestvico navzgor! Dotik stopnje M13, o kateri smo do sedaj le brali v revijah.
 

V tej vse pretopli zimi se je včasih kar težko spravit miksat ali drajtulat, saj skala že močno kliče. A vseeno sem Andreja prepričala, da je potrebno letošnjo dobro formo še malce izkoristit. Z vedno navdušenim in trenutno neustavljivim Lukom smo se tako le odpeljali v Innsbruck, pogledat kaj so preplezali velemojstri v tej disciplini ter kako izgledajo res težke smeri.

Najprej naju je "gamsek" Grma popeljal na kondicijske priprave. Ko smo le prispeli v obljubljeno deželo je Luka kar za ogrevanje na pogled preplezal prvo smer v tem plezališču, "Happy" M9. Nato sta šla oba z Andrejem za hec pogledat kako le izgleda tukajšnja najtežja smer "Game over" M13-, ki je trenutno druga najtežja smer v Evropi (za Bendlerjevo Law and order ocenjeno z M13). Smer je speljana iz dna ogromne votline. Oba sta jo uspela preplezati v drugem poizkusu! Carsko!!! Naslednjega  dne sta nato z istim stilom uspela oba preplezati še drugo najtežjo smer v tem plezališču, "Tension" M12+. Super dobro sta oba pofajtala in vmes malo poskrbela za zastanek diha ob raznih zdrsih in odnašanju nog! Jaz, Tanja pa sem uspela preplezati smer "Happy" M9, ki ponuja dolge gibe in strmo plezanje ter celo malce ledu za na konec.  Drugi dan se nam je pridružil še Erik, ki je bil prav tako na koncu dneva srečen po uspešnem vzponu v Game over. Slovenski raztur!! Času primerno smo vsi plezali brez ostrog, a to je že tako stalnica od lanske sezone.

Zanimivo Andrejevo razmišljanje  naslovljeno  " The Game is (not) over ali kolumn o mix plezanju" lahko najdete na naslednji povezavi http://www.grmoclimb.net/?str=10&pid=65


Drugače pa naš mladi Luka Krajnc vsak vikend dvigne svojo težavnostno stopnjo malce višje, saj je prejšnji vikend (17.-18.2.) v okolici Aoste uspel v smeri “Tsunami” (M12, v 2. poizkusu), naslednji dan pa še v daljši smeri "Jedi master" (M10-, M11, M9+; prva dva raztežaja je uspel preplezati na flesh). Sezona, ki bi si je želel vsak plezalec, sploh pa če je vse to že v prvi sezoni ukvarjanja z miksanjem. Odlično in bravo!


Pod rubriko "SMERI" lahko najdete nekaj več informacij in slik. Avtor Drylanda pa je Albert Leichfried, več na www.albertleichfried.at
 
 

Povezava http://www.grmoclimb.net/?str=502&aid=18


just GrmO

2011-02-09
Triglav, impressive winter ascent

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out hard winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
2010-09-20
How was it in Canada? WILD!

On the expedition to the Cirque of the Unclimbables Tanja and Andrej were fascinated by the sheer wilderness of Canadian North. They went trough real wilderness adventure with lot of good climbing, to much bush hiking and not enough scenic paddling!
2010-07-20
Via Sandro Pertini and Via Cattedrale

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovšek finsihed short visit to the Dolomites with the first free ascent of Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande (7c, 250m) and free ascent of the magnificent Via Cattedrale (8a+ or 8a, 650m, 850m long), Marmolada.
2010-01-26
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps

This winter brings almost unreal conditions to most of the Slovenian alpine walls and an increasing number of Slovenian alpinists found real climbing treasures in the hills!
2009-10-01
Are we afraid of sharks?

Famous and still unclimbed Meru Sharks Fin had turned away jet another climbing team. Beginners lessons for “old experts?” Silvo, Marko and Andrej.
2009-06-18
When everything goes well!

Andrej fight to the end ... and at the end did a one-day free ascent of route Donnafugata, 8a, 750m, Torre Trieste.
2009-05-29
Perfect Morocco

The expedition to Morocco was really great. We were enraptured with its diversity and hospitability of the local people. And especially with unbelievably amounts of reddish walls, one of the best limestone climbing cliffs we know!
2009-03-31
NO winter SIESTA

Amazing busy winter season for Andrej and Marko with some really good and well done routes around Alps like Illuminati and No Siesta! Great climbers on great routes and they don't have any siesta!

2008-09-07
Climbing in South Greenland

Really great climbing expedition, on which we found excelent rock, great weather, many long routes, good friends, beautiful nature and perfect timing.

2008-02-08
Free Mix Lines above Chamonix

Good winter season above Chamonix during which Andrej and Marko were looking for good and chalenging mix routes.


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Oblikovanje in izvedba: Branko Ivanek, 2005  © [grmoclimb.net] Tanja & Andrej Grmovšek, 2005 - 2017