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Podrobneje
Sreča na vrvici, Planjava

 


Novice


Zimski Matterhorn.

Čeprav tudi tokrat ni šlo vse po načrtih sva s Crnim (Andrejem Ercegom) po treh dneh zimske plezarije stala na vrhu najbolj markantne gore Alp.

 

Pravzaprav je ideja o zimskem plezanju v severni steni Matterhorna, natančneje v smeri Piola-Steiner, stara že nekaj let. V njej sva poskusila že pred 4 leti v navezi z Markom Lukićem, a naju je takrat iz stene pregnal hladen veter, predvsem pa prepočasen dostop (z nočnim zgubljanjem) in počasno plezanje po črnih lediščih, pa še strašljiv stik s krušasto steno Zemutovega nosu.

Po tej izkušnji mi je bilo jasno, da poleg ostalega za to turo rabiš perfektno vreme -  toplo in brez vetra in prav takšna je bila napoved za začetek letošnjega marca. Izziv mi ni dal miru in tako sva s Crnim znova dostopala pod smer. Tokrat je šlo vse hitreje, razmere v spodnjem delu so bile boljše, vendar se je že takoj pokazalo, da bo tura za najino navezo malce prevelik zalogaj. Po preplezanem prvem raztežaju groznega kruša, brez prave možnosti solidnega varovališča, mi je bilo jasno, da bo bolj pametno kot z glavo skozi steno, pravočasno pobegniti na varno! A vrh naju je vseeno preveč privlačil, tako da sva po prvem bivaku prek zlizanih plošč zaprečila na Zemutov raz. In po njem do vrha! A ne preveč hitro, višina in kopne nagnjene plate zahodnega ostenja so naredili svoje in še drug bivak pod vrhom nama ni ušel.

Na koncu nama je cela tura z dostopom in sestopom vzela polnih pet dni - pravzaprav prav ornk tura. Ob idealnem vremenu prav odlično alpsko zimsko doživetje.

 

Fotografije povedo več kot zgodba... povezava do njih.

 
 


just GrmO

2011-02-09
Triglav, impressive winter ascent

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out hard winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
2010-09-20
How was it in Canada? WILD!

On the expedition to the Cirque of the Unclimbables Tanja and Andrej were fascinated by the sheer wilderness of Canadian North. They went trough real wilderness adventure with lot of good climbing, to much bush hiking and not enough scenic paddling!
2010-07-20
Via Sandro Pertini and Via Cattedrale

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovšek finsihed short visit to the Dolomites with the first free ascent of Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande (7c, 250m) and free ascent of the magnificent Via Cattedrale (8a+ or 8a, 650m, 850m long), Marmolada.
2010-01-26
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps

This winter brings almost unreal conditions to most of the Slovenian alpine walls and an increasing number of Slovenian alpinists found real climbing treasures in the hills!
2009-10-01
Are we afraid of sharks?

Famous and still unclimbed Meru Sharks Fin had turned away jet another climbing team. Beginners lessons for “old experts?” Silvo, Marko and Andrej.
2009-06-18
When everything goes well!

Andrej fight to the end ... and at the end did a one-day free ascent of route Donnafugata, 8a, 750m, Torre Trieste.
2009-05-29
Perfect Morocco

The expedition to Morocco was really great. We were enraptured with its diversity and hospitability of the local people. And especially with unbelievably amounts of reddish walls, one of the best limestone climbing cliffs we know!
2009-03-31
NO winter SIESTA

Amazing busy winter season for Andrej and Marko with some really good and well done routes around Alps like Illuminati and No Siesta! Great climbers on great routes and they don't have any siesta!

2008-09-07
Climbing in South Greenland

Really great climbing expedition, on which we found excelent rock, great weather, many long routes, good friends, beautiful nature and perfect timing.

2008-02-08
Free Mix Lines above Chamonix

Good winter season above Chamonix during which Andrej and Marko were looking for good and chalenging mix routes.


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Oblikovanje in izvedba: Branko Ivanek, 2005  © [grmoclimb.net] Tanja & Andrej Grmovšek, 2005 - 2024