grmoclimb.net Living the Dream.

Zen

 Zadnja odprava

#2 Balkan tour 2014

Več novic iz odprave... 
 
 Zadnje v galeriji

Celotna galerija
2017

 
 Zadnja smer

Podrobneje
Sreča na vrvici, Planjava

 


Novice


Prva Ulina snubca

Ko sta sredi poletja Tinca in Jaka »potegnila« novo res markantno linijo v Triglavu sem bil zares navdušen - končno je nekdo povezal najstrmejše dele Triglavske stene v eno dolgo in zahtevno smer! Takoj je bilo jasno, da bom smer prej ali slej poskušal preplezati tudi sam.

Iskrene čestitke obema prvoplezalcema, takih novih linij pri nas res ni na pretek!

 

Čeprav sem sprva razmišljal o enodnevni ponovitvi je na koncu lepo in toplo septembrsko vreme prevagalo odločitev in tako sva z Nejcem pretekli petek v zori korakala pod severno steno Triglava, pod Ulino smer. Zaradi kratkega dneva sva bila oprtana z dodatno, bivak, opremo. Smer sva prosto preplezala v dveh dneh z idiličnim bivakom v Hotelu Triglav (ležišče na ostankih armafleksa, z lastno večerjo in zajtrkom je zastonj)!


Smer ima zares odlično linijo, navdušenje nad skalo, ki jo je Jaka verjetno nekoliko v zanosu izredno hvalil pa je bilo bolj zmerno. V lažjih delih se po najinem pretežno uvršča v »povprečen julijski kruš«, težki raztežaji pa zares premorejo za Julijce nenavadno čvrsto in razčlenjeno kamnino! Vsake oči imajo svojega malarja! Čeprav je v smeri kar nekaj svedrovcev in klinov, še zdaleč ni opremljena, tudi ne »prenavrtana«, nekateri raztežaji pa zahtevajo tudi nekaj runoutov.

Z Nejcem sva si bila edina tudi glede ocen posameznih raztežajev - predvsem v najtežjih raztežajih so se nama zdele ocene zares malce preveč prijazne. Z uskladitvijo po več ponovitvah se bodo verjetno znižale vsaj za kak +.
Kakorkoli – smer je za naše hribe zares edinstvena in vsekakor čaka na enodnevni prosti vzpon (NP), za kar pa je potreben dolg zgodnje poleten dan in dobro našpičena naveza tako v krušu kot v težkem prostem plezanju! Mladci v napad!

 

In še ena nora linija. Teden pred Triglavom je »padla« še ena zares fantastična linija v slovenskih hribih. Z Luko Lindičem nama je uspelo dokončati novo smer v predostenju Križevnika. Na prosti vzpon pa bo verjetno morala počakati vsaj do naslednjega poletja!

 
 


just GrmO

2011-02-09
Triglav, impressive winter ascent

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out hard winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
2010-09-20
How was it in Canada? WILD!

On the expedition to the Cirque of the Unclimbables Tanja and Andrej were fascinated by the sheer wilderness of Canadian North. They went trough real wilderness adventure with lot of good climbing, to much bush hiking and not enough scenic paddling!
2010-07-20
Via Sandro Pertini and Via Cattedrale

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovšek finsihed short visit to the Dolomites with the first free ascent of Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande (7c, 250m) and free ascent of the magnificent Via Cattedrale (8a+ or 8a, 650m, 850m long), Marmolada.
2010-01-26
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps

This winter brings almost unreal conditions to most of the Slovenian alpine walls and an increasing number of Slovenian alpinists found real climbing treasures in the hills!
2009-10-01
Are we afraid of sharks?

Famous and still unclimbed Meru Sharks Fin had turned away jet another climbing team. Beginners lessons for “old experts?” Silvo, Marko and Andrej.
2009-06-18
When everything goes well!

Andrej fight to the end ... and at the end did a one-day free ascent of route Donnafugata, 8a, 750m, Torre Trieste.
2009-05-29
Perfect Morocco

The expedition to Morocco was really great. We were enraptured with its diversity and hospitability of the local people. And especially with unbelievably amounts of reddish walls, one of the best limestone climbing cliffs we know!
2009-03-31
NO winter SIESTA

Amazing busy winter season for Andrej and Marko with some really good and well done routes around Alps like Illuminati and No Siesta! Great climbers on great routes and they don't have any siesta!

2008-09-07
Climbing in South Greenland

Really great climbing expedition, on which we found excelent rock, great weather, many long routes, good friends, beautiful nature and perfect timing.

2008-02-08
Free Mix Lines above Chamonix

Good winter season above Chamonix during which Andrej and Marko were looking for good and chalenging mix routes.


Show all news
Oblikovanje in izvedba: Branko Ivanek, 2005  © [grmoclimb.net] Tanja & Andrej Grmovšek, 2005 - 2024