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 Zadnja odprava

#2 Balkan tour 2014

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 Zadnja smer

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Novice


Iskanje alternativ.

Zadnja leta nama je v času pomladnega vplezavanja postalo neke vrste tudi izziv, da plezava v manj obiskanih ali poznanih stenah in plezališčih. In tudi letošnja pomlad ni bila izjema.
 

Pravo veselje in olajšanje je to, da imamo v relativni bližini sicer skalno izredno nerodovitnega Maribora še kakšne nove alternative za plezanje v malih, srednjih ali večjih skalah in stenah. Tudi letos sva ostala zvesta sama sebi in sva iskala potreben mir, ki se po intenzivnem delovnem tednu vedno prileže.

Med zanimivejšimi letošnjimi lokacijami naju je nekajkrat zaneslo na sever. Tako sva preplezala lepo število kratkih, a sladkih smeri v Adlitzgrabnu, ki sva ga "odkrila" že v preteklem letu. Enkrat sva s seboj vzela tudi čoln  in na dan pavze preveslala reko Schwarza (III).

Od daljših smeri sva v pogorju Schneeberg plezala v steni Verlorener Turm smer "Spatlese" (7, 90m) in v steni Stadelwand kombinacijo smeri "Nebulah Frost" (8-/8) in do vrha nadaljevala po smeri "Schwarzer bruder" (7+) skupaj je zneslo za 340m. Najbolj zanimivo pri večini smeri v Avstriji je, da prevladujejo smeri ocenjene z 8 ali 8+ in ta ocena ponavadi predstavlja že krepak "platen problem", če je ocena še višja je prava j... Pa tudi kakšne nižje ocene, predvsem okoli 6 in 7 znajo krepko presenetiti in ti podkuriti lasten ego.

Ker so nama nove destinacije vedno všeč se bova na sever in kam drugam zagotovo še vračala in skušala odkriti še nove bisere, ki jih skrivajo tamkajšnji kraji, stene, gore in doline.

 


 

Slika iz zgornjega dela smeri "Nebulah Frost", kjer skala mestoma nekoliko spominja na peči v Logarski dolini - mali grifeki, gladke plate in samo muvaj!

 

 
 


just GrmO

2011-02-09
Triglav, impressive winter ascent

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out hard winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
2010-09-20
How was it in Canada? WILD!

On the expedition to the Cirque of the Unclimbables Tanja and Andrej were fascinated by the sheer wilderness of Canadian North. They went trough real wilderness adventure with lot of good climbing, to much bush hiking and not enough scenic paddling!
2010-07-20
Via Sandro Pertini and Via Cattedrale

Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovšek finsihed short visit to the Dolomites with the first free ascent of Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande (7c, 250m) and free ascent of the magnificent Via Cattedrale (8a+ or 8a, 650m, 850m long), Marmolada.
2010-01-26
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps

This winter brings almost unreal conditions to most of the Slovenian alpine walls and an increasing number of Slovenian alpinists found real climbing treasures in the hills!
2009-10-01
Are we afraid of sharks?

Famous and still unclimbed Meru Sharks Fin had turned away jet another climbing team. Beginners lessons for “old experts?” Silvo, Marko and Andrej.
2009-06-18
When everything goes well!

Andrej fight to the end ... and at the end did a one-day free ascent of route Donnafugata, 8a, 750m, Torre Trieste.
2009-05-29
Perfect Morocco

The expedition to Morocco was really great. We were enraptured with its diversity and hospitability of the local people. And especially with unbelievably amounts of reddish walls, one of the best limestone climbing cliffs we know!
2009-03-31
NO winter SIESTA

Amazing busy winter season for Andrej and Marko with some really good and well done routes around Alps like Illuminati and No Siesta! Great climbers on great routes and they don't have any siesta!

2008-09-07
Climbing in South Greenland

Really great climbing expedition, on which we found excelent rock, great weather, many long routes, good friends, beautiful nature and perfect timing.

2008-02-08
Free Mix Lines above Chamonix

Good winter season above Chamonix during which Andrej and Marko were looking for good and chalenging mix routes.


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Oblikovanje in izvedba: Branko Ivanek, 2005  © [grmoclimb.net] Tanja & Andrej Grmovšek, 2005 - 2017