Novica iz odprave > Pakistan 2006

Brez oblačka na vrhu Great Tranga

14. avgusta smo končno prispeli v bazni tabor pod Trango Towersi. Ženski del odprave so malo zvile bolezni, Sandra je prebolela gripo, prebavne težave so pa itak stalnica v Pakistanu.

Težavam navkljub smo vsi opravili začetno aklimatizacijo na okrog 5200 m višine, mladci pa so že osvojili Great Trango in ponovili tudi smer od Klemna in Jakata v Garda Peaku. Grma in Karo sta zlezla že dve prvenstveni smeri, eno v neznanem stolpiču, drugo v malem Uli Biahou.

Drugač pa je sedaj babji glavni cilj Slovenska v Nameless Towerju. Zaenkrat smo opustile Hainabrakk in Cat's ear spires, ker je pri obeh zelo slaba skala v spodnjem delu, v Shiptonu pa se nam je skoraj v celoti podrla smer Inshallah.

Vreme je sedaj kar OK, iz sten pa nonstop letijo kamni, led, cel kup je odlomov, skratka prav divje.

just GrmO

2011-02-09
Triglav, impressive winter ascent
Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovsek carried out hard winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).

2010-09-20
How was it in Canada? WILD!
On the expedition to the Cirque of the Unclimbables Tanja and Andrej were fascinated by the sheer wilderness of Canadian North. They went trough real wilderness adventure with lot of good climbing, to much bush hiking and not enough scenic paddling!

2010-07-20
Via Sandro Pertini and Via Cattedrale
Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmovšek finsihed short visit to the Dolomites with the first free ascent of Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande (7c, 250m) and free ascent of the magnificent Via Cattedrale (8a+ or 8a, 650m, 850m long), Marmolada.

2010-01-26
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps
This winter brings almost unreal conditions to most of the Slovenian alpine walls and an increasing number of Slovenian alpinists found real climbing treasures in the hills!

2009-10-01
Are we afraid of sharks?
Famous and still unclimbed Meru Sharks Fin had turned away jet another climbing team. Beginners lessons for “old experts?” Silvo, Marko and Andrej.

2009-06-18
When everything goes well!
Andrej fight to the end ... and at the end did a one-day free ascent of route Donnafugata, 8a, 750m, Torre Trieste.

2009-05-29
Perfect Morocco
The expedition to Morocco was really great. We were enraptured with its diversity and hospitability of the local people. And especially with unbelievably amounts of reddish walls, one of the best limestone climbing cliffs we know!

2009-03-31
NO winter SIESTA
Amazing busy winter season for Andrej and Marko with some really good and well done routes around Alps like Illuminati and No Siesta! Great climbers on great routes and they don't have any siesta!

2008-09-07
Climbing in South Greenland
Really great climbing expedition, on which we found excelent rock, great weather, many long routes, good friends, beautiful nature and perfect timing.

2008-02-08
Free Mix Lines above Chamonix
Good winter season above Chamonix during which Andrej and Marko were looking for good and chalenging mix routes.

Show all news