Portret: Tanja Grmovšek (Rojs)
Tanja je že od rane mladosti ogromno časa preživela med gorami. Pri 16. letih se je vpisala v alpinistično šolo APD Kozjak Maribor. Počasi je nabirala izkušnje in vzpone v gorah, kasneje pa se je malce bolj posvetila tudi športnemu plezanju. Še vedno ima najraje plezanje dolgih smeri, velike stene ter zrak pod nogami. Tekmovala je v lednem plezanju, tudi v svetovnem pokalu in nekajkrat osvojila naslov prvakinje Slovenskega pokala. Že vrsto let sodi v vrh slovenskega ženskega alpinizma. Večkrat je bila nominirana za najuspešnejšo slovensko alpinistko. Od leta 1998 dosega razred vrhunske športnice po kriterijih Olimpijskega komiteja Slovenije; sprva mladinskega, nato perspektivnega, državnega in še mednarodnega razreda. Na Univerzi v Ljubljani je študirala gozdarstvo ter se specializirala za urbano gozdarstvo -arboristiko. Je lastnica in glavni akter podjetja ARBORIST ter svetuje, načrtuje in nadzoruje upravlanje ter nego mestnega drevja, parkov, drevoredov. Od eta 2002 je poročena s svojim najboljšim soplezalcem in življenjskim popotnikom -Andrejem. |
SOME SIGNIFICANT ROUTES AND CLIMBING EXPEDITIONS
Year 2010 - climbing expedition to "Canada - Cirque of the Unclimbables"
five long routes in Cirque of the Unclimbables, Logan Mountains, Canada:
- Power of Silence, Middle Huey Spire, Cirque, Canada, 5.10, A0, 400m; - Riders on the Storm, East Huey Spire, Cirque, Canada, 5.11, A0, 400m, - SE Face, Lotus Flower Tower, Cirque, Canada, 5.11-, 750m , on sight
- Club International, Bustle Tower, Cirque, Canada, 5.11b, A0, 600 m, - The White Tower, Terrace Tower, Cirque, Canada, 5.11, 250 m, on sight- Unforgiven, Mt, Yamnuska, Canadian Rockies, Canada, 5.11, A0, 280 m
- Kapetan pelinkovac, Aniča kuk 6c, 350m- La Mamma, Marmolada, Italy, VII, A0, 500 m,
- Excalibur, Marmolada, Italy, VII+, A0, 450 m,
- Z ognjme in mečem, Rušica, VIII-, 250 m, on sight
- Obraz, Planja, Julian Alps, Slovenia, VII, A0, 500 m
Year 2009 - climbing expedition to "Marocco - Taghia"
climbing expedition to "Marocco - Taghia" - Didre Pikot - Princes of Msmirir, Timrazine, 7a, 400 m- Canyon Apache, Timrazine, 6c+, 355m, NP- Los rationes colores, 6c+, Ojidad, 260m, NP- Baraka, Ojdad, Taghia, Marocco, 6c, A0, 680 m- Scalet-Biasin, Saas Maor, Italy, VII, A0, 600 m- Les Intouchables, Trident du Tacul, France, 6c, A0, 250 m
- UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup 2009: 10th place difficulty Valle Daone, 14th place difficulty Saas Fee; Slovene Ice cup 2008/2009: 1st place in drytooling competition Vipava - Dryland, Innsbruck, Seitenwind M9
- Ueschinen, M8 flesh; sport climbing: 7b+ RP
Year 2008 – climbing expedition »GREENLAND - Tasermiut Fjord« six routes climbed in Tasermiut Fjord, Greenland; three of them were new routes:
- Mosqito Attack, Pyramid of Ulamertorsuaq (Little Uli), Greenland, VII, 320m
- War and Poetry, Ulamertorsuaq, Greenland, VI 5.11a A0, 1000m
- Grmolandija, Pingasuat sud (Pyiramiden), Greenland, VII+, 280m; new route
- Left pillar (British route), Nalumasortoq, Greenland, 700m
- Nalunaq, Tinninertuup III, Greenland, VII/VII+, 900m; new route
- Leteči Viking, Tinninertuup II, Greenland, VIII, 850m; new route
- Voi de Nuit, Mt. Blanc du Tacul, France, IV M8-, 450m
- more routes in Paklenica and Slovenian Alps climbed with friends, all around 7+
- Ouray Ice Climbing Festival 2008: 3rd place women, USA, Colorado
mix climbing: M9 RP; sport climbing: 7a OS
Year 2007 – climbing expedition »INDIA« four new routes climbed in Himalayan Range, Miyar Valley, India; two of them on two virgin peaks
- Tempi Moderni, Marmolada, Dolomites, Italy, VII+/VIII, 830m
- Nema Dinka do Dinka, Anića kuk, Paklenica, Croatia, 7b, 280m, on lead
- Jenjava, Anića kuk, Paklenica, Croatia, 7a+, 300m, on lead
- Infinito, Anića kuk, Paklenica, Croatia, 7a+, 350m, on lead
- Supercouloir with direct start, Mt. Blanc du Tacul, Central Alps, France, IV, 5+, 5b, M6, 800m
- Scotch on the Rocks, Mt. Blanc du Tacul, France, IV, M7, 450m
- Constantini Apollonio, Tofana di Rozes, Italy, 7+, 500m; on sight
- UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup 2007: 7th place world champions difficulty Saas Fee, 10th place world champions boulder Valle Daone; 7th place overall difficulty in world cup IWC (three stage event); Slovene Ice cup 2006/2007: 1st place in drytooling competition Češnjica; Slovak Drytooling competition: 1st place - Happy, M9, Dryland, Innsbruck, Austria; mix climbing: M9 RP; sport climbing: 7c RP
Year 2006 – climbing expedition »PAKISTAN« and climbing trip to »Colorado, USA« in winter - Eternal flame, Trango (Nameless) Tower, Karakoram, Pakistan, 7+ A2, M5, 1000m, first female party on Trango
- American route, Great Trango Tower, Karakoram, Pakistan, ice and snow up to 80°, mainly 40°-60°
- Swiss route, Grand Capucin, Central Alps, France, 7 Ao, 300m, female party
- Amphibian M8+, Vail, Colorado, USA; Val di Landro, Dolomites, Italy, M9
- nominated for best Slovene female alpine climber
- Ouray Ice Climbing Festival 2006: 4th place in difficulty (11th all together men&women), 3rd place in speed, USA, Colorado, Ouray; UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup 2006: 14th place difficulty, 5th place speed; Switzerland, Saas Fee (international event); Slovene Ice cup 2005/2006: 1st place in difficulty and speed competition Mojstrana mix climbing: M8-M9 RP; sport climbing: 7b+ RP
Year 2005 – climbing expedition »PATAGONIA« and climbing trip to »Colorado, USA« in winter
- Compressor Route, Cerro Torre (3128m), Patagonia, Argentina, 6+ A1+, 65°, 1200m, first female party on Cerro Torre
- Buscaini, Ag. Saint Exupery (2558m), Patagonia, Argentina, 7+, 850m
- North Ridge and Austrian route (var), Ag. de la ‘S (2335m), Patagonia, Argentina, 6+, 60°, 600m, female ascent - Comicci, Cima Grande, Tre Cime, Dolomites, Italy, 7, 500m
- Camilloto Pellesier, Cima Grande, Tre Cime, Dolomites, Italy, 6+ A1 (10), 550m
- Via Leviti, Tofana di Rozes, Dolomites, Italy, 7, 500m
- Gletchersimfonie, Kleine Wellhorn, Berner Oberland, Switzerland, 7+, 600m - nominated for best Slovene female alpine climber
- Slovene Ice cup 2004/2005: 1st place in drytooling competition Cesnjica (international event); Austrian Open Ice Climbing Competition: 1st place in female category (international event) - Big Wall Speed Climbing Paklenica 2005; 2nd place in female category
sport climbing: 7b RP
Year 2004 – climbing trip “Wales - ENGLAND” - Couzy route, West Cima, Tre Cime, Dolomites, Italy, 6+ A1 (10), 550m
- Anouk, Pettites Jorasses, Central Alps, France, 7 Ao, 750m
- Kalahari, The Moon, The Big Groove, Gogarth, Wales, England, E3 5c, 100m each
- Spitagoras, Val Rienza, Dolomites, Italy, 6+, 450m, female ascent
- Cassin route, Cima Picolisima, Tre Cime, Dolomites, Italy, 7-, 250m
- Smer norckov, Site, Julian Alps, Slovenia, 6+, Ao, 350m - nominated for best Slovene female alpine climber
- Slovene Ice cup 2003/2004: 1st place overall in difficulty and speed; Austrian Open Ice Climbing Competition: 3rd place in female category (international event) - Big Wall Speed Climbing Paklenica 2004; 2nd place in female category
Year 2003 – climbing expedition »SICHUAN – CHINA« two new routes climbed in Sichuan, China; on two virgin peaks
- Dalai Lama, Putala Shan (5428 m), Sichuan, China, 7+ Ao (8-), 1300m, new route, first ascent, virgin peak
- Dont fly away, Tan Shan (4952 m), Sichuan, China, 7+ Ao (8/8+), 540m, new route, first ascent, virgin peak
- La Ginat-Jackson, Les Droites, Central Alps, France, AI 5+, 1050m, winter ascent
- Le voyage selon Gulliver, Grand Capucin, Central Alps, France, 7+ Ao (8), 400m
- Williamine Dada, Aig. de Blaitiere, Central Alps, France, 7 Ao (8), 350m, female ascent
- Schwalbenschwanz, Marmolada, Dolomites, Italy, 6, 800m, female ascent
- nominated and selected as best Slovene female alpine climber
- Slovene Ice cup 2002/2003: 1st place overall in difficulty and 2nd place overall in speed
- Big Wall Speed Climbing Paklenica 2003; 2nd place in female category
Year 2002 – climbing expedition »EL GIGANTE and USA« and climbing trip to »CUBA« and »SARDEGNA« - La Conjura de los Necios, El Gigante, Candamena canyon, Mexico, 7+ Ao (9), 1000 m, 2nd ascent
- Moonlight buttress, Zion Canyon, USA, 6+ C1 (8+), 300m, in one day
- American Direct, Petit Dru, Central Alps, France, 7 Ao (7+), 1300 m, in one day
- Don Quihot, Marmolada, Dolomites, Italy, 6+, 950 m, female party - nominated for best Slovene female alpine climber got married to Andrej Grmovšek and took his last name
Year 2001 – climbing expedition »PERU« new route climbed in La Esfinge, Peru; and two more routes climbed in La Esfinge
- Meche taq inti, La Esfinge, Cordilera Blanca, Peru, 7+ A2+ (8+/9-), 800 m, new route, 1st ascent
- Cruz del sur, La Esfinge, Cordilera Blanca, Peru, 8- Ao (9-), 800 m, 2nd ascent
- Route '85, La Esfinge, Cordilera Blanca, Peru, 7+ Ao (8-), 800m
- Bela grapa, Planjava, KS Alps, Slovenia, snow and ice 80°/60°, 1000m, winter ascent - nominated for best Slovene female alpine climber
Year 2000 – climbing trip »NORWAY« - Hoka hey, Kjerag, Norway, 7+ Ao (8), 800 m
- Sydpilaren, Mongejura, Romsdal, Norway, 7, 1150m
- Jugoslav route, Hornaksla, Romsdal, Norway, 7+, 400m
- Vestpilaren, Presten, Lofoten Islands, Norway, 7-, 450m
- Korstoget-Reisen, Presten, Lofoten Islands, Norway, 8- Ao (8-), 480m
- Subara direkt, Anića kuk, Paklenica, Croatia, 7+/8-, 300m, on lead
- Mec, Mali Koritniski Mangrt, West Julian Alps, Italy, 6+, 800m
Year 1999 – climbing expedition »USA – MEXICO« - The Nose, El Capitan, USA, 6 C2 (10), 1100m, female party
- El Sendero Luminoso, El Toro, El Potrero Chico, Mexico, 8+ Ao (9), 550m
- El Sendero Diablo, El potrero Chico, Mehika, 7+/8-, 250m
- East butress, El Capitan, USA, 6 C1, 550m, female party
- Yellow ridge, Cima piccola, Tre Cime, Dolomites,Italy, 6+, 350m, female party
- Klin, Anica kuk, Paklenica, Croatia, 8 -, 350m; on lead
sport climbing: 7b RP
Year 1998 – trip to USA - Helba, Triglav, Julian Alps, Slovenia, 7+, 1000; on sight
- A tout cceur, Verdon, France, 7+, 200m, female party
- Das ist nicht kar tako, Site, Julian Alps, Slovenia, 8- Ao (9-), 450m
- JLA, Šite, Julian Alps, Slovenia, 7-, 300m
Year 1997 – living in USA - Velebitaška, Anića kuk, Paklenica, Croatia, 7-, 350m; on sight
- Direktna, Štajerska Rinka, KS Alps, Slovenia, 6, 600m, female party
- Pfeilerkante, Tofana di Rozes, Dolomiti, Italy, 6-, 400m
- West butress, Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, USA, 7-, 200m
Year 1995 - Via classica, Tofana di Rozes, Dolomiti, Italy, 5+, 1200 m
Year 1993 – trip to USA - Igličeva smer, Mala Rinka, KS Alps, Slovenia, 5, 400m, my first route | | |
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